World Famous in New Zealand: Hokianga’s Māngungu Mission House

Perched on a hill overlooking the Hokianga Harbour, and right on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, this neat and satisfyingly symmetrical cottage has a big history for a building so small.

Built in 1838 by the multi-talented Wesleyan Reverend John Hobbs, it was the venue for the second, and largest, signing of the Treaty of Waitangi on February 12, 1840. In a rare gathering, nearly 80 chiefs came together for long discussions, interpreted by Hobbs, with Governor William Hobson.

Then came the signing, which was witnessed by what must have been an unprecedented crowd of 3000 people. Inside, you can see a copy of the Treaty, lying on the actual, if rather spindly, mahogany table that the original was signed at on that momentous day.

WHY GO?

Because, as if the Treaty signing isn’t significant enough, Māngungu was also the site of the first pub in New Zealand (although it wasn’t licensed). Less cheerfully, the first execution in the country took place here too, on low-lying Ruapapaka Island nearby, scrubby and uninhabited except for the murderer’s grave. An argument over a local ferry fare led to the passenger’s murder and the first trial of its kind in New Zealand.

There are more firsts to learn about from the enthusiastic people at the Mission House: honey bees were introduced here by Hobbs’ sister Mary Bumby, who brought two straw hives with her from Britain. The bees did well, and Māori became the first commercial beekeepers. The country’s first Post Office was set up at Māngungu – it took 143 days for a letter to get to London – and, though it’s hard to believe now, with the Hokianga looking so beautifully peaceful, the first-ever shipyard was located here.

INSIDER TIP

The building is well-travelled: it was later moved to Onehunga to be used as a parsonage and then a house, before being returned to the site in the 1970s and restored. Don’t miss the photograph of John Hobbs, looking like a young and bespectacled George Clooney.

ON THE WAY/NEARBY

Back towards Paihia, there’s more historic architecture at Waimate North, where the Mission House, Anglican this time, is rather grander. It’s quiet now, but was once the centre of a hive of activity. It sits in a lovely garden, surrounded by the only bit of New Zealand scenery that Charles Darwin admired.

HOW MUCH?

Adults $10, children (up to 18 years) $3.50, students $5 – special events may cost more. Open Saturday-Monday 10am-4pm, three guided tours are scheduled daily.

BEST TIME TO GO

Choose a clear day to appreciate the long and lovely views, and consider timing your visit to coincide with the Tiriti Commemorations held every February 12, a day of karakia, kōrero and kai. See mangungumission.co.nz